Introduction
More than just a powder-keg or a promised land, Israel is unforgettable. Everyone has their own perception of what Israel is about: it's a travel-agency package of beaches and sun; it's the Promised Land of the Jews; it's a ticking time bomb. And while it is all of these things, it's much more besides. So be sure to look beyond the larger-than-life figures of the past.
Israel is a bustling, noisy, modern country. It's best not to arrive with preconceptions of spiritual epiphany. If you do, you'll almost certainly have them confirmed, but in doing so you run the risk of missing the best this fascinating place has to offer.
Geography:
Smaller than Belgium, New Jersey or Tasmania, Israel is bordered by the Mediterranean Sea to the west, Lebanon and Syria to the north, Jordan and the West Bank to the east and the Gaza Strip and Egypt to the south. The dominant geographic feature is the Rift Valley, which runs from Turkey through Israel and down into Africa. It contains the Dead Sea as well as the Jordan, Arava and Hula valleys and Lake Galilee. Israel is a dry country (the Jordan is its only main river), and only the north sustains agriculture. The country's main body of water, the Dead Sea, is incredibly salty, as well as being the lowest place on the planet. It's flanked by the Judean Desert, which further south becomes the Negev. Three geographic zones converge in Israel, and as a result you'll find a wealth of wildlife. Northern Israel is wet and mountainous, and supports laurel forests and streams filled with otters. The south of the country is desert, with wild tulips, irises and date palms. Israel is also the second largest flyway for migratory birds, with species from all over the world swapping hemispheres here. A fifth of the country is national parks - around 300 of them - and the Israelis are renowned for having turned the desert into a garden, as well as having reintroduced a number of species which have become locally extinct since Biblical times.
Destination Facts
Capital: Jerusalem
President: Shimon Peres
Prime Minister (acting): Tzipi Livni
Government: parliamentary democracy
Time zone: GMT +2
Area: 20770
Population: 6801000
People: Jewish (76%, Israel born 67%), non-Jewish (24%, mostly Arab)
Languages: Jewish (76%), Muslim (16%), Christian (2%), Druze (1.5%), unspecified (4.5%)
Currency: New Israeli Sheqel (₪)
Major industries: Military hardware, machinery, computer software, cut diamonds, phosphates
Major Trading Partners: USA, UK, Belgium/Luxembourg, Germany
Daylight Saving: From late March or early April to late September or early October
Country Dialing Code: 972
Getting There
Israel can be visited at any time of the year, but there are a few factors to consider when planning your trip. Weather-wise, the best time to visit is in the spring (April and May) or autumn (September and October) when temperatures are mild in most areas. November and March are likewise pleasant but do see some rain, especially in the coastal areas and up north. Winter (mid-November to mid-March) can be surprisingly chilly, with heavy rain along the coast and frost in the highlands. Summertime temperatures in the far south are extreme. In Tel Aviv the humidity will make you sweat standing in the shade. This is a good time to visit Jerusalem or other highland areas that are less affected by coastal humidity. Summer is also the peak season for tourists - hotel prices are at their highest and it can sometimes be difficult to find accommodation. You might also want to avoid major Jewish holidays, as the country fills up with pilgrims, accommodation prices go up and it's almost impossible to travel between cities.
Getting there and away
Israel's main gateway is the ultramodern Ben-Gurion airport (TLV, www.ben-gurion-airport.co.il), 20km (12mi) southeast of Tel Aviv and 50km (30mi) west of Jerusalem. There are plenty of flights to Israel, including non-stop flights from the USA, Europe, South Africa and the Far East. Airport security is tight, especially on national carrier El Al, and international travellers should check in at least three hours before their flight. Israel's only viable border crossing with Egypt is at Taba, near Eilat. You will need to pay a fee to leave Israel and one to enter Egypt; pick up your Egyptian visa at the consulate in Eilat before heading for the border. If you are only visiting the Sinai you can pick up a Sinai-only permit at the Taba crossing. If you are trying to get to Cairo in a hurry, the best way is Mazada Tours' (www.mazada.co.il) direct bus service between Tel Aviv or Jerusalem and Cairo - just make sure you have your Egyptian visa before you go. Israel's frontier with Jordan has three crossing points: the Allenby/King Hussein Bridge crossing (30km/18.5mi from Jerusalem, 40km/25mi from Amman), the Jordan River crossing (6km/4mi east of Beit She' an in Galilee) and the Yitzhak Rabin crossing near Eilat. You will need to get your visa (from the Jordanian embassy in Tel Aviv) prior to crossing into Jordan at the Allenby/King Hussein Bridge. At the other crossings you can purchase your visa directly at the border. Buses to Jordan from Israel run via Haifa and Nazareth, or Tel Aviv and Nazareth to Amman. All run via the the Allenby/King Hussein Bridge. If you're driving between Jordan and Israel use either Yitzhak Rabin/Wadi Araba or Jordan River Crossing/Sheikh Hussein Bridge. It is not permitted to cross the Allenby/King Hussein Bridge in your own vehicle. The ferry link between Cyprus and Haifa is currently suspended. These arrangements may change so please double-check with consulates and transport providers before you depart.
Getting around
Israel is so small that it would be silly to fly, but if you must there are flights between Haifa and Eilat and Tel Aviv and Eilat. The national bus service, Egged, has an extensive route system in Israel, partially due to the fact that it's also the major transport vehicle for soldiers moving about the country. Egged buses are modern, clean and equipped with air-con, making travel safe and comfortable. Remember that on Shabbat, Egged intercity buses don't run at all (Friday afternoon to Saturday evening). Arab buses, though older and slower than their Israeli counterparts, provide service between East Jerusalem and destinations in the West Bank. Israel State Railways runs a convenient, efficient and inexpensive network of passenger rail services. The main line runs along the coast, from Nahariya to Ashkelon, with spurs to Be'er Sheva and Dimona, Rishon LeZion and Rehovot, Ben-Gurion airport and Jerusalem. Share taxis, or sheruts, are one of the most popular forms of transport, particularly because they run on Shabbat. These 13-seat minivans, which depart from taxi ranks, operate on a fixed route for a fixed price like a bus and many run 24/7. Hiring a car is a great way to cover a lot of ground in a short amount of time. It doesn't make much sense to have one in Jerusalem or other big cities, but it's definitely a good idea for the Golan, Upper Galilee and Negev areas. Note that Tel Aviv has a serious parking shortage and you'll probably end up having to park in a private lot.
Visa:
Everyone needs a passport valid for at least six months, but unless you are a citizen of most African or some Central American countries, India, Singapore or some ex-Soviet republics, you do not need a visa to enter Israel. Tourists are allowed stays of up to 90 days. This visa can be extended for a fee at Ministry of the Interior offices, located throughout Israel's larger cities and towns. However, when crossing a land border customs might ask how long you intend to stay and what you state is generally what you'll get. If there is a chance you'll stay longer than your intended departure date you might as well ask for the full 90 days. You will be given a duplicate entry permit on arrival. Do not lose this very losable piece of paper! The main hassle with visiting Israel is avoiding having your passport stamped - most Arab countries will not allow you to enter if you have visited Israel. You won't get into Syria, Lebanon, Iran, Saudi Arabia, Libya or Yemen with an Israeli stamp. In Morocco, Tunisia, Egypt, Turkey or Jordan they don't care and in Bahrain, Qatar, the UAE and Oman, a little discretion should get you through. The best thing you can do is ask the officials to stamp your entry permit rather than your passport, or put Israel at the end of your Middle Eastern tour.
Weather
Israel has pronounced seasonal variation, and summers and winters can often get pretty severe. Southern Israel tends to cook in July and August, with the mercury climbing beyond 40 ° C (104 ° F); it's almost constantly dry as well. Elsewhere, November to March are significantly rainy months. Things are a tad cooler in the north with summer highs around 30 ° C (86 ° F) and winter lows sometimes below zero.
Events
Not surprisingly, Israeli holidays and festivals are mostly religious. Keep an eye out for Jewish holidays in particular, as the country really does grind to a halt on these days and you'll have to put your travel plans on hold. The Jewish Sabbath day, Shabbat, is celebrated from sunset Friday to sunset Saturday, and no work may be done on this day. Yom Kippur, in October, is the holiest day in the Jewish calendar. This is the Day of Atonement, and it is marked with 25 hours of abstinence from just about everything, combined with prayer, contemplation and confession. Pesach or the Feast of Passover celebrates the Jewish exodus from slavery in Egypt, led by Moses (or Charlton Heston). This week-long festival in April culminates in the Passover dinner or Seder consisting of several prescribed dishes, each commemorating a different Exodus event. Jewish religious festivals aren't all abstinence and abnegation though. Purim or the Feast of Lots commemorates the Persian Queen Esther's deliverance of her Jewish subjects from the despicable secular politician, Haman. Kids and adults alike dress up in costume and enjoy an evening of revelry. This is the time for the typically non-drinking Israelis to atone; according to tradition they get so plastered that they can't distinguish between 'bless Mordechai' and 'curse Haman'. The big one for Israeli Muslims is Ramadan, a month where everyone fasts between sun-up and sunset to conform to the fourth pillar of Islam. If you're in Israel at this time, be sensitive to the fact that most of the Muslims around you are very, very hungry. Ramadan ends with a huge feast, Eid al-Fitr, where everyone prays together, visits friends, gives presents and stuffs themselves.
Warning
The security situation in Israel remains tense and unpredictable, particularly in the northern border regions and areas surrounding the West Bank and Gaza. These areas, as well as those near the Lebanese border are still very dangerous and should be avoided. Palestinian rockets launched from Gaza frequently hit the southern Israeli town of Sderot. Travellers should exercise extreme caution, especially in Jerusalem, avoid any demonstrations and heed any local advice regarding safety. Check travel advisories and news services before travelling. See Safe Travel for updated government warnings.
More than just a powder-keg or a promised land, Israel is unforgettable. Everyone has their own perception of what Israel is about: it's a travel-agency package of beaches and sun; it's the Promised Land of the Jews; it's a ticking time bomb. And while it is all of these things, it's much more besides. So be sure to look beyond the larger-than-life figures of the past.
Israel is a bustling, noisy, modern country. It's best not to arrive with preconceptions of spiritual epiphany. If you do, you'll almost certainly have them confirmed, but in doing so you run the risk of missing the best this fascinating place has to offer.
Geography:
Smaller than Belgium, New Jersey or Tasmania, Israel is bordered by the Mediterranean Sea to the west, Lebanon and Syria to the north, Jordan and the West Bank to the east and the Gaza Strip and Egypt to the south. The dominant geographic feature is the Rift Valley, which runs from Turkey through Israel and down into Africa. It contains the Dead Sea as well as the Jordan, Arava and Hula valleys and Lake Galilee. Israel is a dry country (the Jordan is its only main river), and only the north sustains agriculture. The country's main body of water, the Dead Sea, is incredibly salty, as well as being the lowest place on the planet. It's flanked by the Judean Desert, which further south becomes the Negev. Three geographic zones converge in Israel, and as a result you'll find a wealth of wildlife. Northern Israel is wet and mountainous, and supports laurel forests and streams filled with otters. The south of the country is desert, with wild tulips, irises and date palms. Israel is also the second largest flyway for migratory birds, with species from all over the world swapping hemispheres here. A fifth of the country is national parks - around 300 of them - and the Israelis are renowned for having turned the desert into a garden, as well as having reintroduced a number of species which have become locally extinct since Biblical times.
Destination Facts
Capital: Jerusalem
President: Shimon Peres
Prime Minister (acting): Tzipi Livni
Government: parliamentary democracy
Time zone: GMT +2
Area: 20770
Population: 6801000
People: Jewish (76%, Israel born 67%), non-Jewish (24%, mostly Arab)
Languages: Jewish (76%), Muslim (16%), Christian (2%), Druze (1.5%), unspecified (4.5%)
Currency: New Israeli Sheqel (₪)
Major industries: Military hardware, machinery, computer software, cut diamonds, phosphates
Major Trading Partners: USA, UK, Belgium/Luxembourg, Germany
Daylight Saving: From late March or early April to late September or early October
Country Dialing Code: 972
Getting There
Israel can be visited at any time of the year, but there are a few factors to consider when planning your trip. Weather-wise, the best time to visit is in the spring (April and May) or autumn (September and October) when temperatures are mild in most areas. November and March are likewise pleasant but do see some rain, especially in the coastal areas and up north. Winter (mid-November to mid-March) can be surprisingly chilly, with heavy rain along the coast and frost in the highlands. Summertime temperatures in the far south are extreme. In Tel Aviv the humidity will make you sweat standing in the shade. This is a good time to visit Jerusalem or other highland areas that are less affected by coastal humidity. Summer is also the peak season for tourists - hotel prices are at their highest and it can sometimes be difficult to find accommodation. You might also want to avoid major Jewish holidays, as the country fills up with pilgrims, accommodation prices go up and it's almost impossible to travel between cities.
Getting there and away
Israel's main gateway is the ultramodern Ben-Gurion airport (TLV, www.ben-gurion-airport.co.il), 20km (12mi) southeast of Tel Aviv and 50km (30mi) west of Jerusalem. There are plenty of flights to Israel, including non-stop flights from the USA, Europe, South Africa and the Far East. Airport security is tight, especially on national carrier El Al, and international travellers should check in at least three hours before their flight. Israel's only viable border crossing with Egypt is at Taba, near Eilat. You will need to pay a fee to leave Israel and one to enter Egypt; pick up your Egyptian visa at the consulate in Eilat before heading for the border. If you are only visiting the Sinai you can pick up a Sinai-only permit at the Taba crossing. If you are trying to get to Cairo in a hurry, the best way is Mazada Tours' (www.mazada.co.il) direct bus service between Tel Aviv or Jerusalem and Cairo - just make sure you have your Egyptian visa before you go. Israel's frontier with Jordan has three crossing points: the Allenby/King Hussein Bridge crossing (30km/18.5mi from Jerusalem, 40km/25mi from Amman), the Jordan River crossing (6km/4mi east of Beit She' an in Galilee) and the Yitzhak Rabin crossing near Eilat. You will need to get your visa (from the Jordanian embassy in Tel Aviv) prior to crossing into Jordan at the Allenby/King Hussein Bridge. At the other crossings you can purchase your visa directly at the border. Buses to Jordan from Israel run via Haifa and Nazareth, or Tel Aviv and Nazareth to Amman. All run via the the Allenby/King Hussein Bridge. If you're driving between Jordan and Israel use either Yitzhak Rabin/Wadi Araba or Jordan River Crossing/Sheikh Hussein Bridge. It is not permitted to cross the Allenby/King Hussein Bridge in your own vehicle. The ferry link between Cyprus and Haifa is currently suspended. These arrangements may change so please double-check with consulates and transport providers before you depart.
Getting around
Israel is so small that it would be silly to fly, but if you must there are flights between Haifa and Eilat and Tel Aviv and Eilat. The national bus service, Egged, has an extensive route system in Israel, partially due to the fact that it's also the major transport vehicle for soldiers moving about the country. Egged buses are modern, clean and equipped with air-con, making travel safe and comfortable. Remember that on Shabbat, Egged intercity buses don't run at all (Friday afternoon to Saturday evening). Arab buses, though older and slower than their Israeli counterparts, provide service between East Jerusalem and destinations in the West Bank. Israel State Railways runs a convenient, efficient and inexpensive network of passenger rail services. The main line runs along the coast, from Nahariya to Ashkelon, with spurs to Be'er Sheva and Dimona, Rishon LeZion and Rehovot, Ben-Gurion airport and Jerusalem. Share taxis, or sheruts, are one of the most popular forms of transport, particularly because they run on Shabbat. These 13-seat minivans, which depart from taxi ranks, operate on a fixed route for a fixed price like a bus and many run 24/7. Hiring a car is a great way to cover a lot of ground in a short amount of time. It doesn't make much sense to have one in Jerusalem or other big cities, but it's definitely a good idea for the Golan, Upper Galilee and Negev areas. Note that Tel Aviv has a serious parking shortage and you'll probably end up having to park in a private lot.
Visa:
Everyone needs a passport valid for at least six months, but unless you are a citizen of most African or some Central American countries, India, Singapore or some ex-Soviet republics, you do not need a visa to enter Israel. Tourists are allowed stays of up to 90 days. This visa can be extended for a fee at Ministry of the Interior offices, located throughout Israel's larger cities and towns. However, when crossing a land border customs might ask how long you intend to stay and what you state is generally what you'll get. If there is a chance you'll stay longer than your intended departure date you might as well ask for the full 90 days. You will be given a duplicate entry permit on arrival. Do not lose this very losable piece of paper! The main hassle with visiting Israel is avoiding having your passport stamped - most Arab countries will not allow you to enter if you have visited Israel. You won't get into Syria, Lebanon, Iran, Saudi Arabia, Libya or Yemen with an Israeli stamp. In Morocco, Tunisia, Egypt, Turkey or Jordan they don't care and in Bahrain, Qatar, the UAE and Oman, a little discretion should get you through. The best thing you can do is ask the officials to stamp your entry permit rather than your passport, or put Israel at the end of your Middle Eastern tour.
Weather
Israel has pronounced seasonal variation, and summers and winters can often get pretty severe. Southern Israel tends to cook in July and August, with the mercury climbing beyond 40 ° C (104 ° F); it's almost constantly dry as well. Elsewhere, November to March are significantly rainy months. Things are a tad cooler in the north with summer highs around 30 ° C (86 ° F) and winter lows sometimes below zero.
Events
Not surprisingly, Israeli holidays and festivals are mostly religious. Keep an eye out for Jewish holidays in particular, as the country really does grind to a halt on these days and you'll have to put your travel plans on hold. The Jewish Sabbath day, Shabbat, is celebrated from sunset Friday to sunset Saturday, and no work may be done on this day. Yom Kippur, in October, is the holiest day in the Jewish calendar. This is the Day of Atonement, and it is marked with 25 hours of abstinence from just about everything, combined with prayer, contemplation and confession. Pesach or the Feast of Passover celebrates the Jewish exodus from slavery in Egypt, led by Moses (or Charlton Heston). This week-long festival in April culminates in the Passover dinner or Seder consisting of several prescribed dishes, each commemorating a different Exodus event. Jewish religious festivals aren't all abstinence and abnegation though. Purim or the Feast of Lots commemorates the Persian Queen Esther's deliverance of her Jewish subjects from the despicable secular politician, Haman. Kids and adults alike dress up in costume and enjoy an evening of revelry. This is the time for the typically non-drinking Israelis to atone; according to tradition they get so plastered that they can't distinguish between 'bless Mordechai' and 'curse Haman'. The big one for Israeli Muslims is Ramadan, a month where everyone fasts between sun-up and sunset to conform to the fourth pillar of Islam. If you're in Israel at this time, be sensitive to the fact that most of the Muslims around you are very, very hungry. Ramadan ends with a huge feast, Eid al-Fitr, where everyone prays together, visits friends, gives presents and stuffs themselves.
Warning
The security situation in Israel remains tense and unpredictable, particularly in the northern border regions and areas surrounding the West Bank and Gaza. These areas, as well as those near the Lebanese border are still very dangerous and should be avoided. Palestinian rockets launched from Gaza frequently hit the southern Israeli town of Sderot. Travellers should exercise extreme caution, especially in Jerusalem, avoid any demonstrations and heed any local advice regarding safety. Check travel advisories and news services before travelling. See Safe Travel for updated government warnings.
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