Introduction
Once an icon of misery, Ethiopia is coming out of the shadows. Travelling in Ethiopia won't be everyone's cup of chai: there's not much tourist infrastructure here, and checking your email rivals carrier pigeon for speed. But the landscape is splendid, the people are welcoming, the sense of history is tangible and you won't have to worry about crowds of tourists.
Destination facts
Capital: Addis Ababa
President: Girma Woldegiorgis
Prime Minister: Meles Zenawi
Government: federal republic
Time zone: GMT +3
Area: 1098000
Population: 64000000
Languages: Ethiopian Orthodox, Muslim, animist
Currency: Ethiopian Birr (Br)
Country Dialing Code: 251
Getting There
Ethiopia is pretty pleasant all year round, with temperatures in Addis Ababa averaging around 20° C (68° F) no matter what the season. Early October, just after the rains is a particularly good time to visit. The country is wonderfully green, the wildflowers are stunning and there are fewer visitors. Trekking during this time is especially sublime, though it's pretty amazing throughout the entire dry season (October through mid-March). The rainy season in most of the country is from mid-June to the end of September. If you're planning to visit the Lower Omo Valley, avoid April, May and October, when rains are heaviest and roads are impassable. Finally, you'd do well to coincide with one of Ethiopia's very colourful festivals, particularly Timkat or Meskel. Be aware, however, that domestic flights and hotels often fill up far in advance of Ethiopian festivals and European Christmas.
Getting there and away
Ethiopian Airlines is one of Africa's largest and best airlines, with an extensive network of flights throughout Africa, as well as to Djibouti and Yemen. Departure tax is 20.00. You can get to Ethiopia from Djibouti by road, but it's pretty exhausting - a bus-train combination tends to work better. Buses and trucks run between the border town of Moyale and Nairobi, but the trip can be slow.
Getting around
Ethiopian Airlines has a strong internal network and its prices are reasonable. There's also a good network of cheap, slow buses along all major roads. In the bigger towns, you need to buy your ticket a day beforehand or you might end up paying double to the touts who occasionally buy up all available seats. The only train line runs between Addis Ababa and Dire Dawa, but it's a long and slow haul.
Weather
There's some truth in the old Ethiopian Tourism Commission slogan '13 Months of Sunshine'. Although the famed historical circuit and the rest of the highlands receives rain between mid-March and September, most days during this period still see their fair share of sunshine. The far east and northern highlands see even more sun with significant rain only falling in July and August. The mercury rarely pokes its nose above the 30° C (86° F) mark during the day and plunges sometimes to almost freezing at night.
Warning
Travel to the Eritrean border area should be avoided. The border itself is permanently closed. The Somali, Kenyan and Sudanese borders are also very dangerous, and any travel by road across these frontiers should be reconsidered. Check Safe Travel for current government warnings.
Once an icon of misery, Ethiopia is coming out of the shadows. Travelling in Ethiopia won't be everyone's cup of chai: there's not much tourist infrastructure here, and checking your email rivals carrier pigeon for speed. But the landscape is splendid, the people are welcoming, the sense of history is tangible and you won't have to worry about crowds of tourists.
Destination facts
Capital: Addis Ababa
President: Girma Woldegiorgis
Prime Minister: Meles Zenawi
Government: federal republic
Time zone: GMT +3
Area: 1098000
Population: 64000000
Languages: Ethiopian Orthodox, Muslim, animist
Currency: Ethiopian Birr (Br)
Country Dialing Code: 251
Getting There
Ethiopia is pretty pleasant all year round, with temperatures in Addis Ababa averaging around 20° C (68° F) no matter what the season. Early October, just after the rains is a particularly good time to visit. The country is wonderfully green, the wildflowers are stunning and there are fewer visitors. Trekking during this time is especially sublime, though it's pretty amazing throughout the entire dry season (October through mid-March). The rainy season in most of the country is from mid-June to the end of September. If you're planning to visit the Lower Omo Valley, avoid April, May and October, when rains are heaviest and roads are impassable. Finally, you'd do well to coincide with one of Ethiopia's very colourful festivals, particularly Timkat or Meskel. Be aware, however, that domestic flights and hotels often fill up far in advance of Ethiopian festivals and European Christmas.
Getting there and away
Ethiopian Airlines is one of Africa's largest and best airlines, with an extensive network of flights throughout Africa, as well as to Djibouti and Yemen. Departure tax is 20.00. You can get to Ethiopia from Djibouti by road, but it's pretty exhausting - a bus-train combination tends to work better. Buses and trucks run between the border town of Moyale and Nairobi, but the trip can be slow.
Getting around
Ethiopian Airlines has a strong internal network and its prices are reasonable. There's also a good network of cheap, slow buses along all major roads. In the bigger towns, you need to buy your ticket a day beforehand or you might end up paying double to the touts who occasionally buy up all available seats. The only train line runs between Addis Ababa and Dire Dawa, but it's a long and slow haul.
Weather
There's some truth in the old Ethiopian Tourism Commission slogan '13 Months of Sunshine'. Although the famed historical circuit and the rest of the highlands receives rain between mid-March and September, most days during this period still see their fair share of sunshine. The far east and northern highlands see even more sun with significant rain only falling in July and August. The mercury rarely pokes its nose above the 30° C (86° F) mark during the day and plunges sometimes to almost freezing at night.
Warning
Travel to the Eritrean border area should be avoided. The border itself is permanently closed. The Somali, Kenyan and Sudanese borders are also very dangerous, and any travel by road across these frontiers should be reconsidered. Check Safe Travel for current government warnings.
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