Introduction
The heart of South America, where the lofty Andes fall away to sweaty jungle. Bolivia may be one of the poorest countries in South America, but its cultural wealth, the vastly differing Amazonian and Andean landscapes, and the remnants of mysterious ancient civilizations make it a rich and exciting destination if you're looking for more than postcards.
This landlocked country is sometimes compared to Tibet - it's the highest and most isolated of the Latin American republics. It is also the most indigenous country on the continent, with more than 50% of the population maintaining traditional values and beliefs.
Geography:
Bolivia is landlocked, lying between Peru, Paraguay, Argentina, Brazil and Chile in central South America. It is the fifth-largest country on the continent, measuring roughly the size of France and Spain combined. There are five geographical regions: the highly populated Altiplano (highland), a 3500m (11,480ft) plateau that stretches from the Peruvian border north of Lake Titicaca southwards to the Argentine border; the highland valleys, which lie to the south and east of the Altiplano; the Yungas, which forms the transition zone between the icy peaks of the Andes and the steamy Amazonian forest; the Chaco, a hot, dry, impenetrable and uninhabited plain along the Paraguayan and Argentine borders; and the underdeveloped swamps, savannahs, scrub and rainforest of the Amazonian Basin. Due to its relatively sparse population, lack of development and diverse geography, Bolivia is one of the best places on the continent to see South American wildlife. Fauna includes the rare spectacled bear, jaguars, vicu ñ as (wild llamas of sorts), llamas, alpacas, anteaters, tapirs, capybaras, turtles, cayman alligators, rheas and condors. Although Bolivia has a fairly good national park system, encroachment into the lowlands of the Amazonian Basin by settlers is increasing. The huge fortunes awaiting those prepared to exploit the area's mineral, agricultural and timber resources have made environmentalism a less convenient posture for the government to adopt.
Destination Facts
Capital: La Paz (administrative); Sucre (consitutional)
President: Evo Morales
Government: republic
Time zone: GMT -4
Area: 1098580
Population: 9000000
People: 30% Quechua Indian, 30% mestizo (mixed white and Amerindian ancestry), 25% Aymara Indian, 15% white
Languages: Composite dialects of Spanish-Aymara and Spanish-Quechua are also widely spoken.
95% Roman Catholic, 5% Protestant (Evangelical Methodist)
Currency: Boliviano (B$)
Major industries: ining, smelting, petroleum, food and beverages, tobacco, handicrafts, clothing
Major Trading Partners: Brazil, US, Argentina, Colombia, Chile, Peru, Japan, China
Country Dialing Code: 591
Getting There
Travelers will encounter just about every climatic zone in Bolivia, from stifling humidity and heat to arctic cold. Summer (November to April) is the rainy season, when overland transportation becomes difficult if not impossible in some areas. In the lowlands it can be utterly miserable, with mud, high humidity, biting insects and relentless tropical downpours. The most popular, and arguably most comfortable, time for exploring the whole country is during winter (May to October) with its dry, clear days. This is also the best season for climbing. The high tourist season falls between late June and early September, due not only to climatic factors, but the timing of European and North American summer vacations and the fact that it's also Bolivia's major fiesta season. Both international visitors and lots of South Americans are traveling during this period, so prices are generally higher than during the rest of the year.
Getting there and away
Only a few airlines offer direct flights to Bolivia - many people fly into another South American country and travel overland, which is generally cheaper. You can enter Bolivia by road from any of the neighboring countries. Routes are poor from Brazil and Chile, and those from Paraguay should only be considered with a 4WD. Routes from Argentina and Peru, however, pose no major problems. Foreigners entering from another country need a hoja de ruta (circulation card), available from the Servicio Nacional de Tr á nsito at the frontier. This must be presented and stamped at all police posts along highways and just outside major cities. Peajes (tolls) are often charged and private vehicles may be searched for contraband. Depending on where you enter from, you may need to change buses across the border. If you're determined to fly, flights to/from Chile and Peru are the cheapest. Santa Cruz is an increasingly popular entry point from Western European hubs. Flying into La Paz is more expensive than into Santa Cruz. Bolivia's principal international airports are La Paz's El Alto (tel: 2281 0240) and Santa Cruz' Viru-Viru International (tel: 181). At the time of research, Bolivia's national carrier, Lloyd A é reo Boliviano was in financial trouble and unreliable at best. AeroSur, the nation's other airline, is more reliable. An international departure tax (around 25.00), is payable in cash at the airport. There's also a 15% tax on international airfares purchased in Bolivia.
Getting around
All flights on the national airline, Lloyd Aereo Boliviano (LAB), were suspended on 31 March 2007 until further notice. Alternative domestic air services are provided by TAM (military airline), Aereoste, Amazonas and Aereo Sur - be prepared for delays, cancellations and general unreliability. Bolivia's road network is great, mainly because of the lack of paved roads. Most long-distance buses depart in the evening and travel through the night. If you want to see the countryside between towns, you're better off catching a truck, which is a popular mode of transport among campesinos - they're are half the price of buses, and half as comfortable. Since privatization in the mid-90s, passenger rail services have been drastically cut. There are two rail networks: one in the west and one in the east. The eastern network is completely chaotic; the western network is just disorganized. Don't be fooled by trains with zippy names like tren expreso; apart from the ferrobus, they're all excruciatingly slow.
Visa:
Passports must be valid for six months beyond the date of entry. Entry or exit stamps are free, and attempts at charging should be met with polite refusal; ask for a receipt if the issue is pressed. Bolivian visa requirements can be arbitrarily changed and interpreted. Regulations, including entry stays, are likely to change. Each Bolivian consulate and border crossing may have its own entry requirements, procedures and idiosyncrasies. Citizens of most South American and Western European countries can get a tourist card on entry for stays up to 90 days, depending on the nationality. Citizens of Canada, Australia, New Zealand and Japan are granted 30 days while citizens of Israel are granted 90 days. In January 2007, the Morales government announced that from March 2007 all US citizens visiting Bolivia would require a visa. Check with the Bolivian embassy (www.bolivia-usa.org) for the latest. Visas are issued by Bolivian consular representatives, including those in neighboring South American countries. Costs vary according to the consulate and the nationality of the applicant. See the website of the Ministerio de Relaciones Exteriores y Culto (Bolivian Ministry of Exterior Relations & Culture; www.rree.gov.bo) for a complete list of overseas representatives and current regulations. In addition to a valid passport and visa, citizens of many Communist, African, Middle Eastern and Asian countries require 'official permission' from the Bolivian Ministry of Foreign Affairs before a visa will be issued. Anyone coming from a yellow-fever infected area needs a vaccination certificate to enter Bolivia. Those entering some neighboring countries, including Brazil, from Bolivia, are also required to have proof of a yellow-fever vaccination. If necessary, a jab can often be administered at the border.
Weather
Most of Bolivia lies as near to the equator as Tahiti or Hawaii, but its elevation and unprotected expanses result in unpredictable weather. The two poles of climatic extremes are Puerto Su á rez with its overwhelming heat, and Uyuni for its icy, cold winds. But there are no absolutes; at times you can sunbathe in Uyuni and freeze in Puerto Suárez. Knowing what to pack depends not so much on when you go but how high you go. Ascending a whopping 3657m (12,000ft) to a town like La Paz will mean rugging up year-round, with maximum temperatures only nudging the 20° C (68° F) mark and dropping to the low single digits at night. Visit the Bolivian lowlands, however, and you'll be peeling off the layers, with average monthly highs sitting around 30° C (86° F). In both cases, the rain is generally less in the middle months, especially July; November to March at low altitudes are downright soaking.
Events
Bolivian fiestas (festivals) are invariably of religious or political origin, normally commemorating a Christian or indigenous saint or god, or a political event such as a battle or revolution. Festivities typically include lots of folk music, dancing processions, food, alcohol, ritual and generally unrestrained behavior. Water balloons (gringos are sought-after targets!) and fireworks (all too often at eye-level) figure prominently. Major fiestas include Fiesta de la Virgen de la Candelaria, a week-long festival in the Virgin's honor, best seen in Copacabana on the shores of Lake Titicaca (early February); Carnaval, a nationwide event that is best seen in Oruro (the week before Lent); and Phujllay, which is held in Tarabuco to commemorate the Battle of Lumbati (early March). The animated Festividad de Nuestro Se ñ or Jes ú s del Gran Poder is held in La Paz to celebrate the power of Jesus Christ (May to June); while Díade la Independencia is a riotous nationwide party celebrating Bolivian independence (August 6).
The heart of South America, where the lofty Andes fall away to sweaty jungle. Bolivia may be one of the poorest countries in South America, but its cultural wealth, the vastly differing Amazonian and Andean landscapes, and the remnants of mysterious ancient civilizations make it a rich and exciting destination if you're looking for more than postcards.
This landlocked country is sometimes compared to Tibet - it's the highest and most isolated of the Latin American republics. It is also the most indigenous country on the continent, with more than 50% of the population maintaining traditional values and beliefs.
Geography:
Bolivia is landlocked, lying between Peru, Paraguay, Argentina, Brazil and Chile in central South America. It is the fifth-largest country on the continent, measuring roughly the size of France and Spain combined. There are five geographical regions: the highly populated Altiplano (highland), a 3500m (11,480ft) plateau that stretches from the Peruvian border north of Lake Titicaca southwards to the Argentine border; the highland valleys, which lie to the south and east of the Altiplano; the Yungas, which forms the transition zone between the icy peaks of the Andes and the steamy Amazonian forest; the Chaco, a hot, dry, impenetrable and uninhabited plain along the Paraguayan and Argentine borders; and the underdeveloped swamps, savannahs, scrub and rainforest of the Amazonian Basin. Due to its relatively sparse population, lack of development and diverse geography, Bolivia is one of the best places on the continent to see South American wildlife. Fauna includes the rare spectacled bear, jaguars, vicu ñ as (wild llamas of sorts), llamas, alpacas, anteaters, tapirs, capybaras, turtles, cayman alligators, rheas and condors. Although Bolivia has a fairly good national park system, encroachment into the lowlands of the Amazonian Basin by settlers is increasing. The huge fortunes awaiting those prepared to exploit the area's mineral, agricultural and timber resources have made environmentalism a less convenient posture for the government to adopt.
Destination Facts
Capital: La Paz (administrative); Sucre (consitutional)
President: Evo Morales
Government: republic
Time zone: GMT -4
Area: 1098580
Population: 9000000
People: 30% Quechua Indian, 30% mestizo (mixed white and Amerindian ancestry), 25% Aymara Indian, 15% white
Languages: Composite dialects of Spanish-Aymara and Spanish-Quechua are also widely spoken.
95% Roman Catholic, 5% Protestant (Evangelical Methodist)
Currency: Boliviano (B$)
Major industries: ining, smelting, petroleum, food and beverages, tobacco, handicrafts, clothing
Major Trading Partners: Brazil, US, Argentina, Colombia, Chile, Peru, Japan, China
Country Dialing Code: 591
Getting There
Travelers will encounter just about every climatic zone in Bolivia, from stifling humidity and heat to arctic cold. Summer (November to April) is the rainy season, when overland transportation becomes difficult if not impossible in some areas. In the lowlands it can be utterly miserable, with mud, high humidity, biting insects and relentless tropical downpours. The most popular, and arguably most comfortable, time for exploring the whole country is during winter (May to October) with its dry, clear days. This is also the best season for climbing. The high tourist season falls between late June and early September, due not only to climatic factors, but the timing of European and North American summer vacations and the fact that it's also Bolivia's major fiesta season. Both international visitors and lots of South Americans are traveling during this period, so prices are generally higher than during the rest of the year.
Getting there and away
Only a few airlines offer direct flights to Bolivia - many people fly into another South American country and travel overland, which is generally cheaper. You can enter Bolivia by road from any of the neighboring countries. Routes are poor from Brazil and Chile, and those from Paraguay should only be considered with a 4WD. Routes from Argentina and Peru, however, pose no major problems. Foreigners entering from another country need a hoja de ruta (circulation card), available from the Servicio Nacional de Tr á nsito at the frontier. This must be presented and stamped at all police posts along highways and just outside major cities. Peajes (tolls) are often charged and private vehicles may be searched for contraband. Depending on where you enter from, you may need to change buses across the border. If you're determined to fly, flights to/from Chile and Peru are the cheapest. Santa Cruz is an increasingly popular entry point from Western European hubs. Flying into La Paz is more expensive than into Santa Cruz. Bolivia's principal international airports are La Paz's El Alto (tel: 2281 0240) and Santa Cruz' Viru-Viru International (tel: 181). At the time of research, Bolivia's national carrier, Lloyd A é reo Boliviano was in financial trouble and unreliable at best. AeroSur, the nation's other airline, is more reliable. An international departure tax (around 25.00), is payable in cash at the airport. There's also a 15% tax on international airfares purchased in Bolivia.
Getting around
All flights on the national airline, Lloyd Aereo Boliviano (LAB), were suspended on 31 March 2007 until further notice. Alternative domestic air services are provided by TAM (military airline), Aereoste, Amazonas and Aereo Sur - be prepared for delays, cancellations and general unreliability. Bolivia's road network is great, mainly because of the lack of paved roads. Most long-distance buses depart in the evening and travel through the night. If you want to see the countryside between towns, you're better off catching a truck, which is a popular mode of transport among campesinos - they're are half the price of buses, and half as comfortable. Since privatization in the mid-90s, passenger rail services have been drastically cut. There are two rail networks: one in the west and one in the east. The eastern network is completely chaotic; the western network is just disorganized. Don't be fooled by trains with zippy names like tren expreso; apart from the ferrobus, they're all excruciatingly slow.
Visa:
Passports must be valid for six months beyond the date of entry. Entry or exit stamps are free, and attempts at charging should be met with polite refusal; ask for a receipt if the issue is pressed. Bolivian visa requirements can be arbitrarily changed and interpreted. Regulations, including entry stays, are likely to change. Each Bolivian consulate and border crossing may have its own entry requirements, procedures and idiosyncrasies. Citizens of most South American and Western European countries can get a tourist card on entry for stays up to 90 days, depending on the nationality. Citizens of Canada, Australia, New Zealand and Japan are granted 30 days while citizens of Israel are granted 90 days. In January 2007, the Morales government announced that from March 2007 all US citizens visiting Bolivia would require a visa. Check with the Bolivian embassy (www.bolivia-usa.org) for the latest. Visas are issued by Bolivian consular representatives, including those in neighboring South American countries. Costs vary according to the consulate and the nationality of the applicant. See the website of the Ministerio de Relaciones Exteriores y Culto (Bolivian Ministry of Exterior Relations & Culture; www.rree.gov.bo) for a complete list of overseas representatives and current regulations. In addition to a valid passport and visa, citizens of many Communist, African, Middle Eastern and Asian countries require 'official permission' from the Bolivian Ministry of Foreign Affairs before a visa will be issued. Anyone coming from a yellow-fever infected area needs a vaccination certificate to enter Bolivia. Those entering some neighboring countries, including Brazil, from Bolivia, are also required to have proof of a yellow-fever vaccination. If necessary, a jab can often be administered at the border.
Weather
Most of Bolivia lies as near to the equator as Tahiti or Hawaii, but its elevation and unprotected expanses result in unpredictable weather. The two poles of climatic extremes are Puerto Su á rez with its overwhelming heat, and Uyuni for its icy, cold winds. But there are no absolutes; at times you can sunbathe in Uyuni and freeze in Puerto Suárez. Knowing what to pack depends not so much on when you go but how high you go. Ascending a whopping 3657m (12,000ft) to a town like La Paz will mean rugging up year-round, with maximum temperatures only nudging the 20° C (68° F) mark and dropping to the low single digits at night. Visit the Bolivian lowlands, however, and you'll be peeling off the layers, with average monthly highs sitting around 30° C (86° F). In both cases, the rain is generally less in the middle months, especially July; November to March at low altitudes are downright soaking.
Events
Bolivian fiestas (festivals) are invariably of religious or political origin, normally commemorating a Christian or indigenous saint or god, or a political event such as a battle or revolution. Festivities typically include lots of folk music, dancing processions, food, alcohol, ritual and generally unrestrained behavior. Water balloons (gringos are sought-after targets!) and fireworks (all too often at eye-level) figure prominently. Major fiestas include Fiesta de la Virgen de la Candelaria, a week-long festival in the Virgin's honor, best seen in Copacabana on the shores of Lake Titicaca (early February); Carnaval, a nationwide event that is best seen in Oruro (the week before Lent); and Phujllay, which is held in Tarabuco to commemorate the Battle of Lumbati (early March). The animated Festividad de Nuestro Se ñ or Jes ú s del Gran Poder is held in La Paz to celebrate the power of Jesus Christ (May to June); while Díade la Independencia is a riotous nationwide party celebrating Bolivian independence (August 6).
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